PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

Yeah, 0.2b is fine. It was installed and working on PS3#7 until that console relapsed (diagnosed BGA defect, so unrelated). So they work fine, these are just better (on paper). And yeah, they're cheap so why not.
 
Was looking at getting some printed in Australia but ended up being cheap enough ordering form OSH Park. Now just gotta wait and see how long they take to arrive. Thanks RIP-Felix
 
hi guys i have a ps3 fat DIA-001 ori DIA-002 (i dont remember now) with ylod, i replaced one of the rsx nec tokins with 1500uf 6.3v which take from pc motherboard. it works few days without problems. yesterday i tried turn on console and get ylod, tried replace second nec, but withous succes. at star ti see it want to read from hdd and i get it start after 10 times of turning on and when a ps3s menu appears it turns off immidately.
now it soldered like in this image, must i do bridges or not, or is the problem in cell nec's?
 

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Although, it is better each capacitor has a short path for the current to flow, thats not your problem. As long as you still have at least 1 tokin on the RSX side it will act as the bridge.

Electrolytic caps don't work. They'll die soon after install, if they work. You need low ESR caps.

Here's an educated guess at the real problem. You probably have a BGA defect in the RSX that responded to the heat and pressure changes of the work you had done. I call what you experianced a "False Positive" repair. A thermomechanical reconnection of a microscopic solder crack, for example. It looks like it worked, but when the warping relaxes in a few days, or at most a few weeks, it'll YLOD again.

Now we can tell for sure using the SYSCON errorlogs. However, I have seen this many times before and what you describe checks all the boxes. BGA defect requiring a reball to repair.
 
i not heated the rsx or mb, i used only soldering iron and changed only one nec and then it started working without any problems, but after few days it started again give me ylod(
 
Got another A01 from eBay with YLOD. How should I approach this one. One of my Tokin on bottom my CELL looks cooked.
>$ ERRLOG GET 00
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 01
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 02
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 03
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 04
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 05
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 06
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 07
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 08
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0A
00000000 A0801601 0B614D94
>$ ERRLOG GET 0B
00000000 A0801701 0B614D94
>$ ERRLOG GET 0C
00000000 A0801601 0B5BC75B
>$ ERRLOG GET 0D
00000000 A0801701 0B5BC75B
>$ ERRLOG GET 0E
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0F
00000000 A0403034 0B489147
>$ ERRLOG GET 10
00000000 A0403034 0B4890FE
>$ ERRLOG GET 11
00000000 A0403034 0B4890E8
>$ ERRLOG GET 12
00000000 A0403034 0B4890DF
>$ ERRLOG GET 13
00000000 A0403034 0B4890D4
>$ ERRLOG GET 14
00000000 A0801601 0B488F16
>$ ERRLOG GET 15
00000000 A0801701 0B488F16
>$ ERRLOG GET 16
00000000 A0801001 0B4886A5
>$ ERRLOG GET 17
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 18
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 19
00000000 A0403034 0B7DA892
>$ ERRLOG GET 1A
00000000 A0801601 0B7DA87D
>$ ERRLOG GET 1B
00000000 A0801701 0B7DA87D
>$ ERRLOG GET 1C
00000000 A0801001 0B5830AE
>$ ERRLOG GET 1D
00000000 A0802022 0B4B08A0
>$ ERRLOG GET 1E
00000000 A0802022 0B4B08A0
>$ ERRLOG GET 1F

edit: added picture of it
2Aut3tz.jpg

2Aut3tz
 
Last edited:
Got another A01 from eBay with YLOD. How should I approach this one. One of my Tokin on bottom my CELL looks cooked.
>$ ERRLOG GET 00
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 01
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 02
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 03
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 04
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 05
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 06
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 07
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 08
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0A
00000000 A0801601 0B614D94
>$ ERRLOG GET 0B
00000000 A0801701 0B614D94
>$ ERRLOG GET 0C
00000000 A0801601 0B5BC75B
>$ ERRLOG GET 0D
00000000 A0801701 0B5BC75B
>$ ERRLOG GET 0E
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0F
00000000 A0403034 0B489147
>$ ERRLOG GET 10
00000000 A0403034 0B4890FE
>$ ERRLOG GET 11
00000000 A0403034 0B4890E8
>$ ERRLOG GET 12
00000000 A0403034 0B4890DF
>$ ERRLOG GET 13
00000000 A0403034 0B4890D4
>$ ERRLOG GET 14
00000000 A0801601 0B488F16
>$ ERRLOG GET 15
00000000 A0801701 0B488F16
>$ ERRLOG GET 16
00000000 A0801001 0B4886A5
>$ ERRLOG GET 17
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 18
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 19
00000000 A0403034 0B7DA892
>$ ERRLOG GET 1A
00000000 A0801601 0B7DA87D
>$ ERRLOG GET 1B
00000000 A0801701 0B7DA87D
>$ ERRLOG GET 1C
00000000 A0801001 0B5830AE
>$ ERRLOG GET 1D
00000000 A0802022 0B4B08A0
>$ ERRLOG GET 1E
00000000 A0802022 0B4B08A0
>$ ERRLOG GET 1F

edit: added picture of it
2Aut3tz.jpg

2Aut3tz

Interesting. I wonder if the tokin cooked itself or someone attempted to get it off with hot air and did that.

was the console opened or sealed before you got it?

Are you willing to remove the plastic cover and post a picture of the delidded tokin? I curious to see.

3034 requires reball.
there are other errors in the log suggesting issues with PWR, possably related to the tokins or VRM. I have been leaning about PLL and the CPU buck controller. I think it may bear fruit, but I'm still in the process of making sense of all the information.

I think it may help explain the 1601, 1701, 1301, 1001, 3010, and other CPU related errors. They have mostly defied explanation for awhile. Usually that's because we're ignorant to some HW subsystem or principal. I'm hoping something will come of learning about this, but if not at least it oushed my electronics understanding.
 
Interesting. I wonder if the tokin cooked itself or someone attempted to get it off with hot air and did that.

was the console opened or sealed before you got it?

Are you willing to remove the plastic cover and post a picture of the delidded tokin? I curious to see.

3034 requires reball.
there are other errors in the log suggesting issues with PWR, possably related to the tokins or VRM. I have been leaning about PLL and the CPU buck controller. I think it may bear fruit, but I'm still in the process of making sense of all the information.

I think it may help explain the 1601, 1701, 1301, 1001, 3010, and other CPU related errors. They have mostly defied explanation for awhile. Usually that's because we're ignorant to some HW subsystem or principal. I'm hoping something will come of learning about this, but if not at least it oushed my electronics understanding.

console was definitely opened. Thermal paste has also been changed but doesn't look like it was delided. How would I go about deliding the tokin? Peel it like an oinion?
 
The plastic will come off pretty easily. Get under a corner and pry up. Or start in the middle, and break the plastic off on one edge of the tokin. Then peel the plastic cover off. It should come away without damaging the metal or solder.
 
Looks fine, but you can't really tell by just looking. Anyway, it looks like there's burned on flux residue in the thermal vias by the tokins, suggesting previous reflows. A failed reflow would explain the 3034. That's to be expected as a reflow is not ideal.

A reball is needed. I wouldn't trust the old solder chemistry at this point.
 
Managed to get online with Syscon and got the below error logs.

7oPBeRf.jpeg


ERR 00: 00000000 A0403034 29234214
ERR 01: 00000000 A0404412 29234214
ERR 02: 00000000 A0801802 291733B8
ERR 03: 00000000 A0801802 29172FC9
ERR 04: 00000000 A0801802 29172FC3
ERR 05: 00000000 A0801802 29172FA5
ERR 06: 00000000 A0801802 29172FA0
ERR 07: 00000000 A0801802 29172F7E
ERR 08: 00000000 A0801802 29172F7A
ERR 09: 00000000 A0801802 29172F76
ERR 10: 00000000 A0802203 28E5503C
ERR 11: 00000000 A0802203 28E55034
ERR 12: 00000000 A0802203 28E54F88
ERR 13: 00000000 A0802203 28E54F3B
ERR 14: 00000000 A0802203 28E54F2B
ERR 15: 00000000 A0802203 28E54EDC
ERR 16: 00000000 A0802203 28E54EC9
ERR 17: 00000000 A0802203 28E54DCB
ERR 18: 00000000 A0802203 28E54D9B
ERR 19: 00000000 A0802203 28E54CB4

iJUOCJC.jpeg
 
Another set of logs from another console.

ERR 00: 00000000 A0213013 FFFFFFFF
ERR 01: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 02: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 03: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 04: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 05: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 06: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 07: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 08: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 09: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 10: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 11: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 12: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 13: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 14: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 15: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 16: 00000000 A0213013 FFFFFFFF
ERR 17: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 18: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 19: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
 
ERR 00: 00000000 A0403034 29234214
ERR 01: 00000000 A0404412 29234214
Afraid that's the dreaded reballing error. Possably BGA defect, bumps, or worn out die. Only a reflow/reball will tell.

On the other hand it'd be a good candidate for a frankenstein mod. But that's out of reach for most people because of skill and tools.
 
Another set of logs from another console.

ERR 00: 00000000 A0213013 FFFFFFFF
ERR 01: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 02: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 03: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 04: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 05: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 06: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 07: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 08: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 09: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 10: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 11: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 12: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 13: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 14: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 15: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 16: 00000000 A0213013 FFFFFFFF
ERR 17: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 18: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
ERR 19: 00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
3013

BE_SPI DI/DO ERROR

CELL not communicating to syscon via SPI (1.2V MC2_VDDIO and 1.2V BE_VCS no output) = Possible shorts on the line, check C4001 and trailing caps. Possible dead CPU?

Another user had one on a CPU he damaged while deliding.
 
Afraid that's the dreaded reballing error. Possably BGA defect, bumps, or worn out die. Only a reflow/reball will tell.

On the other hand it'd be a good candidate for a frankenstein mod. But that's out of reach for most people because of skill and tools.
What's involved with the Frankenstein? It's either that or ordering the stuff I need to reball it. When reballing, does the 3034 indicate one or both chips are the issue?
 
What's involved with the Frankenstein? It's either that or ordering the stuff I need to reball it. When reballing, does the 3034 indicate one or both chips are the issue?

90% of the time its the RSX. Maybe 50-70% of those RSX issue are due to the BGA and reballing works. The sucess of reball depends on tools and skill, basically how long it lasts. Note, the underfill on the die bumps is known to be of lesser quality at that time. So it could also be that many of the failed consoles after reballing has nothing to do with the BGA bond, but the bumps failed again. And since they cannot be reballed without expensive specialized equipment (like $50,000+) then it has to be replaced.

Enter the Frankenstein mod. Basically its a mod chip that spoofs the RSX ID so the SYSCON thinks you have the 90nm RSX installed, when in reality you don't. This allows you to install a 65nm or 40nm RSX from later models. You can't install a 28nm from a SS, because its not pin compatible.

So if you have to reball anyway, you may as well buy a NOS CXD5301 off ebay and the modchip (currently have to buy through an intermediary on Fiverr, since @botakompong sells it on an indonesain only marketplace). It has been tested and confirmed to work. Since the NOS chip hasn't been thermocycled (it's NOS), was manufactured later (perhaps the underfill was better), and its of smaller manufacturing process (40nm), it should last a long time. Possably as long as a slim would.

I would say it's YLOD proof, but there's still the 90nm CPU and plenty of aging electronics in there to get old and die. The YLOD is a general hardware fault that has many causes...so, it'll always plage the PS3.
 
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